At sunrise I packed up the Rolling Steel Tent and rolled out of my campsite on Snowbird Mesa/Poverty Flats just outside Overton Moapa Valley, Nevada.
Then I blasted south on I-15—until I hit commuter traffic in Las Vegas. A good chunk of the 1.7 million adults in the Las Vegas-Henderson-Paradise, NV Metropolitan Statistical Area, plus truckers passing through, plus me, were creeping along slower than the 35 MPH posted on the overhead digital speed limit signs controlled by someone or something somewhere. Sometimes we weren’t moving at all. But things opened up past Tropicana Boulevard, and the drive continued on. Past Jean. Past Primm. Into California.
I was more than ready for breakfast when I got to Baker. It had been about a decade since I had eaten at the Mad Greek. At that time it was a set up like a typical cafe. Sit at a table or at the counter, waitress takes your order, etc. Now the counter is gone, and so are the servers. Instead there are McDonald’s-style touch screens, with an interesting difference. Rather than numbered table tents, the Mad Greek has buzzing pagers. You pick up your order when it goes off. Well, when you’re in a tiny slowly-dying town with a very limited labor pool, businesses (and customers) need to adjust.
The Bacon Scrambowl (a scramble in a bowl) was rather tasty, although the “bowl” was a pressed cardboard tray thing.
With my stomach happy, I continued on to Barstow where I took Highway 58 to its junction with US 395. I turned north. My “plan” was to get as far as Ridgecrest and then decide whether I wanted to go all the way to Lone Pine, or turn west to Lake Isabella. By the time I reached the decision point I had talked myself out of Lone Pine. First was the fact the BLM had made parts of Alabama Hills out of bounds for camping and had set up designated campsites. So I might not be able to get a spot. Second was that my favorite spot, where I could get a cell signal, was technically off BLM territory, and the owner (PG&E, or Los Angeles County, or some such thing) had started enforcing the no trespassing rules. There are a couple of small campgrounds in the area, but I figured they would be full because of decreased camping at Alabama Hills. I would miss the dramatic views, and the showers at the hostel, but, um, oh well. So onward to Lake Isabella.

There are a few Forest Service campgrounds around the lake. I decided to stay at Paradise Cove, a place I had never seen occupied on my previous visits. I thought it might be abandoned. But there were a couple occupied spots today, so okay.
The camp hosts came around to collect the fee. One of them said, “It’s kind of warm today but it cools down nicely after sunset.” I explained I had come from the desert, so the 75-ish temperature they thought was warm was perfect for me.
I’m tempted to stay a few days, but the fee is kind of spendy. So it’s off to the coast tomorrow, a trip that’s only half as long as today’s journey.