Running out of breath...
Essential part of the combustion process...
I knew the air filter was good because I'd had it had replaced at the last oil change. When I popped the hood and started poking around the intake system, I saw the problem.
The air filter is a cylinder, closed at one end and open at the other. To service it, you pop off the dome on the end of the housing. Putting the filter back in can be a bit of a wrestling match. The open end squeezes over the end of the mass air flow sensor, which sticks into the end of the filter housing.
The "trained service technician" who replaced the filter last time managed to shove the MAF out of the filter housing. Because somewhere along the line, someone had removed the bolts that attach the MAF to the housing. This created a gap between the two. Air—and junk—was bypassing the filter. Not good.
Here are the air filter housing and MAF removed from the Rolling Steel Tent
The MAF measures the amount of incoming air so that the engine computer can tell how much gasoline the fuel injectors should supply for a proper mixture. The MAF can't do its job right when it's dirty. Symptoms of a dirty MAF include sluggish power and lower fuel milage—my symptoms.
So I blasted the inside of the MAF with MAF cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner or any other fluid. They can destroy the MAF.
So, you might want to double-check that your air filter is properly positioned. And it's a good thing to clean the MAF once in a while, like annually. After all, you'll have all that left over cleaner to use up.
Oh, and if a mechanic tells you he needs to replace your MAF instead of just cleaning it, it's because the profit on a new MAF is greater. Ask if he has actually tested the MAF.
Sure glad you knew what to do; I wouldn't have a clue. Hope you are able to get the right bolts soon.ReplyDelete
In case anyone needs to know, the bolts were metric—M6. GM uses a mixture of metric and SAE fasteners, because America.ReplyDelete